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Young British Designers

J.W.Anderson

J.W.Anderson
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Background

Born in Magherafelt, Northern Ireland in 1984, Jonathan William Anderson originally wanted to pursue a career in acting. Whilst studying drama he discovered a love for stage costume and went on to study menswear at the London College of Fashion. His collection made its debut at London Fashion Week in 2008. At the beginning of 2010 J.W.Anderson launched a capsule collection for women at the behest of fans of menswear. The collection quickly achieved critical and commercial success and from February 2011 has been shown on-schedule during London Fashion Week. Through his origins in menswear, Anderson continues to explore the relationship between boy and girl and blurs the lines of gender in each of his collections.

Anderson lives in London where his studio is also located.

He is winner of British Fashion Award in 2012: Emerging Talent Award- Ready-To-Wear.

Inspiration

"There is an air of ease and an emotional femininity to the collection this season" says Jonathan Anderson. "At the same time it is always the same character that travels through our collections. And each one is an evolution from the last and of that character- she's sliced and diced and served up again but she's always slightly broken. You see a different fragment of her each time. There is never a literal reference for the collection. Here there are broken lines with opposing curves- folded, over-lapping, draped and hand-stitched on the body. There is a manipulation of textures opposing one another. And there is a celebration of a certain boredom and beauty."

A deconstructed classicism, explored and exploded, melded together with the hyper-ordinary and domestic is a particular focus for the SS14 J.W.Anderson collection. There might be a sense of the oddly ancient, of the classical pagan and pastoral but in the world of J.W.Anderson. The female character of the collection is here draped in laser cut nylon or sculpted in geometric embossed and debossed leathers and 'pleathers'. The Caryatid Column and the Vestal Virgin collide with a contemporary humdrum domestic world of wipe-clean tablecloths, abandoned takeaway boxes and Vileda Supermops. It is a playful kind of classical beauty mixed with a new sense of the avant-bland.

Many of the motifs of the collection are to be found through feeling as well as looking this season: the artificial and the real; the high-flown and the hyper-ordinary; the tactile and the emotional versus the clinical and the cold. Fabrications are particularly important in their perverse, sensual array with a play of leathers and pleathers, cottons and nylons, sequins and see-through. Traditional smocking and pleating techniques are applied to contemporary fabrics in a palette predominating in whites, browns, blacks and navy.

Accessories are based on matter-of-fact objects transformed. Here the private, domestic and ephemeral is made public, formal and permanent. A sophisticated evolution of the takeaway box and carrier bag or simple plastic sandals or house slippers- as the designer states 'non-shoes'- are all reworked in leather. Each are transported and transferred from the interior to the exterior world.

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