What is it about wearing boy clothes that is so appealing to the female, so seductive to the male. I remember seeing my first 'French Movie'. It starred Catherine Deneuve or someone of that ilk. All shift dressed and stiletto'ed, bouffant backcombed hair and heavily kohl'ed eyes. All smouldering elegance and the very height of sophistication. I was in girl love.
But then she spent the afternoon with her lover, became all moody and in need of a cigarette and climbed out of the rumpled bed and into his white shirt. Bedhead hair, bare legs, overlong sleeves rolled back, cuffs dangling about tiny wrists, oversized shirt dwarfing her frame, large stiff collar cupping her sulky lipped face. Oh My God. Power, vulnerability, sexy as... well, as what they'd spent all afternoon doing. One presumed.
And that's what it is about male designers who start off in menswear and are compelled to design for women as well as, or instead of. They get the girl boy dynamic. They know that the masculine only serves to heighten and accentuate the feminine. That male tailoring cues create a conflict with the female form that sets hearts beating faster and allows a girl to be strong and tough and all woman at the very same time.
Allow us to introduce Eudon Choi. If you haven't heard of him already you will do very soon. Just today he has been announced as winning the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award for Spring Summer 2011 which will see his collection catwalked across London and Paris Fashion Weeks.
Born and raised in Korea, Choi began his career in menswear before accepting a place on the Royal College of Art's prestigious MA course in London. His launch collection attracted the likes of Sienna Miller and Jade Jagger and Choi accepted the position of Senior Designer at Twenty8Twelve. Here he stayed until leaving to launch his own label in 2009.
Choi's Autumn Winter 2010/11 collection takes its inspiration from an eclectic mix of classic male garments and random found objects: A military jacket picked up at a thrift shop, a back catalogue of LIFE magazines, a classic WW2 aviator flight jacket and a pair of old army boots. Intensely male items inspiring a quintessentially female collection.
Clever panels of assorted fabrics in a utilitarian colour palette of khaki, navy, beige and grey are offered in exaggerated masculine silhouettes. Robust and durable materials fit for purpose and mission are juxtaposed with silk,chiffon and soft leather details. Brutal male wrapping, tender female filling. Intoxicating.
Climb out of bed, into his clothes and leave your hair tousled.
Boy meets girl. Girl meets boy. Eudon Choi. You'll be wanting to wear him all day long.